FORMULASI DAN EVALUASI SEDIAAN BLUSH ON STICK EKSTRAK ETANOL BUNGA ROSELLA (Hibiscus sabdariffa L.) SEABAGAI PEWARNA ALAMI

Latar Belakang : Penggunaan pewarna sintetis pada kosmetik dekoratif berpotensi menimbulkan iritasi sehingga diperlukan alternatif pewarna alami yang lebih aman. Bunga rosella (Hibiscus sabdariffa L.) mengandung antosianin yang berpotensi digunakan sebagai pewarna alami pada sediaan blush on stick. Penelitian ini bertujuan memformulasikan dan mengevaluasi mutu fisik blush on stick ekstrak etanol bunga rosella dengan basis lilin carnauba.
Metode : Penelitian ini merupakan penelitian eksperimental laboratorium (pre-experimental). Ekstrak bunga rosella diperoleh dengan metode maserasi menggunakan etanol 70%, kemudian diformulasikan menjadi tiga formula blush on stick dengan variasi konsentrasi lilin carnauba, yaitu Formula I (4%), Formula II (6%), dan Formula III (8%). Evaluasi sediaan meliputi uji organoleptik, homogenitas, pH, daya oles, titik leleh, titik patah, uji iritasi, serta uji stabilitas dipercepat (cycling test) selama 12 hari.
Hasil : Hasil penelitian menunjukkan bahwa seluruh formula memenuhi persyaratan mutu fisik pada parameter organoleptik, homogenitas, pH, daya oles, titik leleh, titik patah, dan uji iritasi. Selama cycling test, sediaan tetap stabil tanpa perubahan bentuk, warna, dan aroma. Namun, warna yang dihasilkan adalah kuning pudar sehingga belum sesuai dengan warna merah yang diharapkan dari pigmen antosianin bunga rosella
Kesimpulan : Ekstrak etanol bunga rosella (Hibiscus sabdariffa L.) dapat diformulasikan menjadi blush on stick yang stabil dan memenuhi persyaratan mutu fisik. Namun, diperlukan optimasi formulasi untuk meningkatkan intensitas warna agar sesuai dengan karakteristik warna yang diharapkan.
Kata Kunci: bunga rosella (Hibiscus sabdariffa L.), blush on stick, lilin carnauba, pewarna alami, cycling test.

Background:The use of synthetic colorants in decorative cosmetics has the potential to cause irritation; therefore, safer natural colorants are needed. Roselle (Hibiscus sabdariffa L.) contains anthocyanins that have the potential to be used as natural colorants in blush-on stick formulations. This study aimed to formulate and evaluate the physical quality of blush-on stick containing ethanolic extract of roselle with carnauba wax as the base.
Methods: This study was a laboratory experimental pre-experimental) study. Roselle extract was obtained by maceration using 70% ethanol and then formulated into three blush-on stick formulations with different concentrations of carnauba wax: Formula I (4%), Formula II (6%), and Formula III (8%). The formulations were evaluated for organoleptic properties, homogeneity, pH, spreadability, melting point, breaking point, irritation, and accelerated stability using the cycling test method for 12 days.
Results: The results showed that all formulations met the physical quality requirements for organoleptic properties, homogeneity, pH, spreadability, melting point, breaking point, and irritation. During the cycling test, the formulations remained stable without changes in shape, color, or odor. However, the resulting color was pale yellow and did not match the expected red color of roselle anthocyanin pigment.
Conclusion: The ethanolic extract of roselle (Hibiscus sabdariffa L.) can be formulated into a stable blush-on stick that meets the required physical quality standards. However, further formulation optimization is needed to improve color intensity and achieve the desired color characteristics.
Keywords: blush-on stick, cycling test, carnauba wax, natural colorant, rosella
(Hibiscus sabdariffa L.).