FORMULASI CREAM BLUSH SH ON EKSTRAK KULIT BUAH NAGA MERAH (Hylocereus polyrhizus) DAN MINYAK ZAITUN (Olea europaea) SEBAGAI EMOLIEN

Latar Belakang: Pemanfaatan pewarna sintetis pada sediaan blush on masih menimbulkan perhatian terkait keamanan, sementara pemanfaatan pewarna alami dari limbah kulit buah naga merah sebagai bahan kosmetik dekoratif belum banyak dikembangkan. Oleh karena itu, diperlukan formulasi cream blush on berbahan ekstrak kulit buah naga merah dengan penambahan minyak zaitun sebagai emolien serta evaluasi kestabilan fisiknya.
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Metode: Penelitian ini merupakan penelitian eksperimental laboratorium. Ekstrak kulit buah naga merah diperoleh melalui metode maserasi menggunakan pelarut etanol 70%, kemudian dilakukan skrining fitokimia. Ekstrak selanjutnya diformulasikan menjadi empat formula cream blush on dengan variasi konsentrasi minyak zaitun sebagai emolien. Evaluasi sediaan meliputi uji organoleptik, homogenitas, tipe krim, pH, viskositas, daya sebar, daya poles, serta uji stabilitas dipercepat (cycling test) selama 12 hari.
Hasil: Seluruh formula menunjukkan karakteristik organoleptik yang stabil, homogen, bertipe emulsi minyak dalam air (M/A), serta tidak mengalami perubahan warna maupun bau setelah cycling test. Nilai pH berada pada rentang 4,57–5,19, viskositas 8.521,67–15.438,67 cPs, dan daya sebar 4,38–5,78 cm, sehingga memenuhi persyaratan mutu sediaan krim. Formula III menunjukkan daya poles terbaik dibandingkan formula lainnya.
Kesimpulan: Ekstrak kulit buah naga merah (Hylocereus polyrhizus) dapat diformulasikan menjadi sediaan cream blush on yang stabil secara fisik dan memenuhi persyaratan mutu.
Kata Kunci: cream blush on, Hylocereus polyrhizus, kulit buah naga merah, minyak zaitun, pewarna alami, stabilitas fisik.

Background: The use of synthetic colorants in blush-on formulations continues to raise safety concerns, while the utilization of natural colorants derived from red dragon fruit (Hylocereus polyrhizus) peel waste in decorative cosmetics remains limited. Therefore, it is necessary to formulate a cream blush using red dragon fruit peel extract with olive oil as an emollient and to evaluate its physical stability..
Methods: This study employed an experimental laboratory design. Red dragon fruit peel extract was obtained through maceration using 70% ethanol as the solvent, followed by phytochemical screening. The extract was then formulated into four cream blush formulations with varying concentrations of olive oil as the emollient. The formulations were evaluated for organoleptic properties, homogeneity, cream type, pH, viscosity, spreadability, spreadability on the skin (application performance), and accelerated stability using a 12-day cycling test.
Results: All formulations exhibited stable organoleptic characteristics, good homogeneity, an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion type, and showed no changes in color or odor after the cycling test. The pH values ranged from 4.57 to 5.19, viscosity ranged from 8,521.67 to 15,438.67 cPs, and spreadability ranged from 4.38 to 5.78 cm, indicating compliance with the quality requirements for cream formulations. Formula III demonstrated the best application performance compared to the other formulations.
Conclusion: Red dragon fruit peel (Hylocereus polyrhizus) extract can be successfully formulated into a physically stable cream blush preparation that meets the required quality standards.
Keywords: cream blush, red dragon fruit peel, Hylocereus polyrhizus, olive oil, natural colorant, physical stability.