FORMULASI DAN EVALUASI FACIAL WASH EMULGEL MINYAK BIJI LABU KUNING (CUCURBITA pepo L.) DENGAN VARIASI SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE SEBAGAI SURFAKTAN

ABSTRAK
Latar Belakang: Kulit wajah rentan terpapar sinar ultraviolet, debu, polusi, dan bahan kimia sehingga memerlukan pembersih yang efektif dan aman. Minyak biji labu kuning (Cucurbita pepo L.) mengandung antioksidan yang berpotensi melindungi kulit dari radikal bebas. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) merupakan surfaktan yang banyak digunakan dalam facial wash, namun konsentrasi yang terlalu tinggi dapat memengaruhi kestabilan sediaan dan berpotensi menyebabkan iritasi. Penelitian ini bertujuan memformulasikan facial wash emulgel minyak biji labu kuning dengan variasi konsentrasi SLS.
Metode: Penelitian eksperimental dilakukan dengan membuat facial wash emulgel menggunakan variasi konsentrasi SLS 1%, 1,5%, dan 2%. Evaluasi meliputi uji organoleptis, homogenitas, pH, viskositas, tinggi busa, iritasi kulit, stabilitas penyimpanan suhu kamar selama 28 hari, dan uji dipercepat (cycling test) selama 12 hari.
Hasil: Seluruh formula menghasilkan sediaan yang homogen, memiliki warna dan bau yang stabil, serta tidak menimbulkan iritasi kulit. Variasi konsentrasi SLS memengaruhi karakteristik fisik, terutama viskositas, pH, dan tinggi busa. Peningkatan konsentrasi SLS meningkatkan tinggi busa dan menurunkan viskositas. Seluruh formula memenuhi persyaratan evaluasi fisik selama penyimpanan suhu kamar maupun cycling test.
Kesimpulan: Minyak biji labu kuning (Cucurbita pepo L.) dapat diformulasikan menjadi facial wash emulgel yang stabil dengan variasi SLS sebagai surfaktan. Formula II dengan konsentrasi SLS 1,5% merupakan formula paling optimal berdasarkan hasil evaluasi fisik dan stabilitas.
Kata kunci: Cucurbita pepo L., facial wash emulgel, minyak biji labu kuning, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, stabilitas fisik.

ABSTRACT
Background: Facial skin is frequently exposed to ultraviolet radiation, dust, pollution, and chemical substances, requiring an effective and safe facial cleanser. Pumpkin seed oil (Cucurbita pepo L.) contains antioxidant compounds that have the potential to protect the skin from free radicals. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) is a surfactant commonly used in facial wash formulations; however, excessive concentrations may affect the stability of the formulation and potentially cause skin irritation. This study aimed to formulate a pumpkin seed oil facial wash emulgel using different concentrations of SLS.
Methods: This experimental study formulated facial wash emulgels containing pumpkin seed oil with SLS concentrations of 1%, 1.5%, and 2%. The formulations were evaluated for organoleptic properties, homogeneity, pH, viscosity, foam height, skin irritation, stability during 28 days of room-temperature storage, and accelerated stability using a 12-day cycling test.
Results: All formulations were homogeneous, exhibited stable color and odor, and did not cause skin irritation. Variations in SLS concentration affected the physical characteristics of the formulations, particularly viscosity, pH, and foam height. Increasing the SLS concentration increased foam height while decreasing viscosity. All formulations met the required physical evaluation parameters during room-temperature storage and the accelerated cycling test.
Conclusion: Pumpkin seed oil (Cucurbita pepo L.) can be successfully formulated into a stable facial wash emulgel using different concentrations of SLS as a surfactant. Formula II containing 1.5% SLS was identified as the optimal formulation based on its physical characteristics and stability.
Keywords: Cucurbita pepo L., facial wash emulgel, pumpkin seed oil, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, physical stability.